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Diversions
Shoes prove more than functional is modern culture
Published:
Thursday, March 6, 2003
Jenee' Osterheldt
Knight Ridder Newspapers
Soul is essential to hip-hop culture. Equally important is sole-- as in bubble gum, gel or rubber.
Footwear, that is.
Sneakers, or "kicks," have been a beloved part of the world of hip-hop for decades, especially among men.
"There's definitely a special relationship between men and their shoes," said Professor K, founder of www.kicksology.net. "It exists both inside and outside the hip-hop culture, but it's probably strongest in the hip-hop world."
Back in 1986, when Run-DMC released the hit single "My Adidas," kids were break dancing in shell-toed Adidas shoes and track suits. Today you can turn on the radio and hear Nelly singing "Air Force Ones," an homage to the 22-year-old brand of sneakers.
"The whole game changed after the 1985 Air Jordan campaign, when sneaker advertising became a billion-dollar industry," author Bobbito Garcia told Vibe magazine. "Prior to that, what people decided to wear was predicated by the street," said Garcia, whose book, "Where'd You Get Those: The History of New York Sneaker Culture 1960-1987," will be released this spring.
From Adidas to Pumas to Reeboks and Nikes, kicks are the object of many guys' affections and often part of a large, cherished collection.
Almost every hip-hopper on "MTV Cribs" has a closet full of shoes. Many of them also have shoe endorsements. The shoes range from $75 Nike Air Force 1's to $115 Air Jordans.
Rappers aren't the only ones spending that cash. All across the country guys are buying, selling and collecting shoes. From the high school kid to the computer technician, males of all kinds spend hundreds and even thousands a year on kicks.
It's not so much about the rappers than it is about style, said Edwin Martinez, 18, a Kansas City shoe fanatic.
"Shoes are a big part of hip-hop, because fashion is a big part of hip-hop," said Martinez, who has 27 pairs of Nike's, mostly Shox. "Shoes set off the outfit."
But for many, shoes are deeper than the attire. It's about a brand, a collection and a personality.
Collecting comes in levels. Some collectors order from other countries. Most are brand loyal. Many keep their precious footwear in the original boxes. Some even wear their kicks.
"Shoes are a way to exhibit your individuality," said Roland Rhodes, a junior chemical engineering major at the University of Kansas.
"In hip-hop, from the days of Slick Rick and Bally's and now Nelly with the Air Force One, shoes and fashion are about self-expression. You don't hear rock `n' roll cats talking about Vans and the hot stuff they wear."
Rhodes expresses himself with 15 pairs of Nikes kept in his closet on top of the boxes they came in. He's bought shoes from all over the world.
"Unique colors and new styles that aren't released in the U.S. are available in other countries," he said. "And I like to be different."
For Omar Saleem Muhammad, shoes are just as much a culture as hip-hop.
"Adi (Adidas) should be an element of hip-hop," said Muhammad, a 23-year-old Hartford, Conn., youth worker. "Adi's revolutionized the sneaker, they brought hip-hop and the way people dressed to another level."
Muhammad owns 30 pairs of Adidas, and after each wear he thoroughly cleans them. His newest addition: Jason Mizell Ultrastars, Adidas' tribute to the late Jam Master Jay.
"People have loyalty to certain brands because it says something about who they are," said Muhammad, an exclusive Adidas collector for six years.
"I believe people that collect Adidas are often into b-boying (break dancing), authenticity and original sneakers. I buy something Adidas almost every day, whether it's $2 socks, shoes or clothes."
Corey Peterson, a 23-year-old graphics technician from Virginia Beach, Va., is a hard-core sneaker pimp and avid hip-hop fan.
"The great thing about shoe collecting is there are so many directions you can go in."
Peterson is walking directly toward Nike.
With 89 pairs of mint condition Nikes, he estimates his collection to be worth $14,000. He plans on eventually buying a house with that collection.
One pair, the Nike Air Foamposite One's designed for Penny Hardaway, are the highlight and possibly the bookend of his collection, he said.
It's the Foamposites he remembers most vividly.
"I bought them on June 11, 1997, for $179.99," said Peterson, who's been collecting since 1989. He recently posted the Foamposites, semi-worn, on eBay and within an hour sold them for $315. He then bought a brand new pair for $399 and keeps them shrink-wrapped in the box.
"Now that I have the Foamposites, I feel like my collection is complete," Peterson said.
So, does that mean he won't be buying any more shoes?
"I wouldn't say that."
